The Ultimate LED Strip Light Installation Guide: From Planning to Pro

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Table of Content

Section 1: The Essential Pre-Installation Checklist
Section 2: Power Planning & Voltage Drop Prevention
Section 3: Cutting & Connecting LED Strips (The Solderless Revolution)
Section 4: Mounting Channels & Finishing Touches
Section 5: Connecting to Power (Safely and Securely)
Section 6: LED Strip Light Troubleshooting Guide
Section 7: Future-Proof Your LED Lighting System

Welcome to the definitive LED lighting guide from HitLights, your trusted source for everything LED.
Installing LED strip lights used to feel like a job only a pro electrician could handle. Thanks to today’s solderless connectors, plug-and-play power supplies, and smart controllers, virtually anyone can achieve a professional-grade LED strip light installation at home or in the office.
This is a comprehensive article that guides you through every critical step. We're talking initial design, getting the technical stuff right (like tackling that tricky voltage drop calculation), and achieving a final, clean mounting and easy troubleshooting. We're here to ensure your DIY LED strip light installation looks professional, runs safely, and lasts for years.
 
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 1: The Essential Pre-Installation Checklist</h2>
Before sticking your first strip, planning is everything. Most LED installation problems, flickering lights, dim ends, or overheating, come from skipping this step. Here’s your must-follow checklist for a flawless result.
<h3 dir="ltr">1.1 Understand Your LED Strip System Components</h3>
Every lighting setup has four core components. Choosing the right ones determines your final brightness, efficiency, and longevity.
<div dir="ltr" align="left">
<table>
<colgroup> <col width="172"> <col width="175"> <col width="277"> </colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
Component
</td>
<td>
Function
</td>
<td>
Key Decision Point
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
LED Strip Lights
</td>
<td>
The flexible light source.
</td>
<td>
Choose voltage (12V or 24V), color (single, RGB, tunable white), and brightness (lumens per foot).
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Power Supply (Driver)
</td>
<td>
Converts household AC to low-voltage DC power.
</td>
<td>
Must match strip voltage and provide at least 15–20% more wattage than total LED load.
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Controller/Dimmer (Optional)
</td>
<td>
Adjusts brightness, color, and temperature.
</td>
<td>
Select remote, wall dimmer, or smart Wi-Fi control (Google Home, Alexa).
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Connectors & Wires
</td>
<td>
Bridge gaps and corners without soldering.
</td>
<td>
Use solderless connectors for simple, reliable, DIY-friendly connections.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
 
HitLights Pro Tip: Invest in quality components from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility and consistent performance.
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2097/6403/files/Project_planning.jpg?v=1762242531" alt="Project checklist" style="float: none;"></div>
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">1.2 Voltage Choice: 12V vs 24V</h3>
Matching the voltage between your LED strips and power supply is non-negotiable. Here’s how to decide:
<div dir="ltr" align="left">
<table>
<colgroup> <col width="78"> <col width="236"> <col width="310"> </colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
Feature
</td>
<td>
12V LED Strips
</td>
<td>
24V LED Strips
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Best For
</td>
<td>
Small accent projects or vehicle lighting
</td>
<td>
Long runs (under cabinet, cove lighting, architecture)
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Max Run
</td>
<td>
~16 ft (5 m)
</td>
<td>
~32 ft (10 m) or more
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Wire Size
</td>
<td>
Thicker wire needed
</td>
<td>
Thinner, more efficient wire over distance
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
 
Recommendation: For most professional LED strip light installations, go with 24V strips. They minimize voltage drop, use thinner wire, and deliver consistent brightness.
 
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">1.3 Safety and Code Compliance</h3>
Safety ensures performance and peace of mind.
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Follow the NEC and local codes. When in doubt, hire a licensed electrician for final connections.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Avoid sharp bends. Maintain at least a 1.5” bend radius.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Don’t power strips on the reel. Always unroll before connecting to prevent overheating.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Power Supply Placement: Keep it accessible, ventilated, and out of walls (inside cabinets or closets works best). 
</li>
</ul>
 
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 2: Power Planning & Voltage Drop Prevention</h2>
Voltage drop, the dimming of lights along a long strip, is one of the most common LED installation issues. Here’s how to calculate and prevent it.
<h3 dir="ltr">2.1 Calculate Your Total Wattage</h3>
Use this simple formula:
Total Wattage = (Length × Watts per foot) × 1.2 (safety buffer)
Example: 30 ft of 4.5 W/ft LED strip = 30 × 4.5 = 135 W Add 20% buffer → 135 × 1.2 = 162 W
✅ Choose a power supply rated for at least 165W. Always round up and never push a driver to 100% capacity.
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2097/6403/files/Power_and_voltage_drop.jpg?v=1762242531" alt="Power Planning &amp; Voltage Drop Prevention" style="float: none;"></div>
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">2.2 Select Proper Wire Gauge & Use Power Injection</h3>
Correct wire thickness prevents voltage loss.
<div dir="ltr" align="left">
<table>
<colgroup> <col width="99"> <col width="255"> </colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
Distance (ft)
</td>
<td>
Recommended Wire Gauge (AWG)
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Up to 10 ft
</td>
<td>
22 AWG
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
10–20 ft
</td>
<td>
20 AWG
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
20–30 ft
</td>
<td>
18 AWG
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
30–50 ft
</td>
<td>
16 AWG
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
 
What is Power Injection? Adding secondary power leads to the middle or end of your LED run keeps brightness uniform. For long coves or architectural lighting, inject power every 16 ft (12V) or 32 ft (24V).
 
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 3: Cutting & Connecting LED Strips (The Solderless Revolution)</h2>
This is where your install takes shape — no soldering required.
<h3 dir="ltr">3.1 Cutting LED Strips Correctly</h3>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Identify cut points (scissor icons or copper pads).
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Cut only on marked lines — cutting elsewhere breaks the circuit.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Use sharp scissors for clean, even edges. 
</li>
</ul>
 
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">3.2 Choosing the Right Connectors</h3>
<div dir="ltr" align="left">
<table>
<colgroup> <col width="157"> <col width="139"> <col width="328"> </colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
Connector Type
</td>
<td>
Purpose
</td>
<td>
Description
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Strip-to-Strip Jumper
</td>
<td>
Bridge gaps or turns
</td>
<td>
Flexible connector for joining strips around obstacles.
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Gapless Connector
</td>
<td>
End-to-end joints
</td>
<td>
Ideal for sharp 90° corners or continuous runs.
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Pig Tail Connector
</td>
<td>
Power connections
</td>
<td>
Links strip to power supply or controller.
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
L-Shape / T-Shape
</td>
<td>
Corners & splits
</td>
<td>
Allows branching or directional turns.
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
 
Installation Steps:
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Prep: Cut cleanly at copper pads. Remove silicone if waterproof.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Open Clip: Lift the latch on the connector.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Insert Strip: Align polarity (+/−).
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Secure: Snap clamp tight to ensure contact.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Test: Power briefly to confirm before final mounting. 
</li>
</ol>
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2097/6403/files/Cutting_and_solderless_connnectors.jpg?v=1762242531" alt="Cutting &amp; Connecting LED Strips" style="float: none;"></div>
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 4: Mounting Channels & Finishing Touches</h2>
<h3 dir="ltr">4.1 Why Aluminum Channels Matter</h3>
Aluminum channels do far more than look good:
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Heat Dissipation: Extends LED life and prevents brightness loss.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Aesthetic Finish: Frosted diffusers soften “dotting” for a clean, continuous glow.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Protection: Shields against dust, impact, and moisture. 
</li>
</ul>
 
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">4.2 Channel Installation Steps</h3>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Mark Position using a level for perfect alignment.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Cut Channels to size; use 45° miter cuts for corners.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Mount Channels with screws or clips every 1-2 ft.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Clean the Surface with rubbing alcohol.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Adhere the LED Strip securely inside.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Snap the Diffuser Cover into place for instant professional polish. 
</li>
</ol>
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2097/6403/files/Mounting_channels_326f8c11-d711-4db4-8895-062178051628.jpg?v=1762242531" alt="Mounting Channels &amp; Finishing Touches" style="float: none;"></div>
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">4.3 Waterproof LED Installations</h3>
For outdoor or humid environments, use IP65 or IP67-rated LED strips.
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
After cutting, reseal ends with silicone caps and RTV silicone sealant.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
This restores waterproof integrity and prevents corrosion or short circuits. 
</li>
</ul>
 
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 5: Connecting to Power (Safely and Securely)</h2>
⚠️ Always turn off the power at the breaker before wiring.
<h3 dir="ltr">5.1 Wiring LED Strips to the Power Supply</h3>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Low Voltage Side (DC): Connect strip wires (+/−) to the driver’s V+ / V− terminals.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
High Voltage Side (AC): Connect L (Live), N (Neutral), and G (Ground) correctly.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Dimmable Systems: Confirm your dimmer and driver compatibility (e.g., ELV vs. forward phase). 
</li>
</ul>
Need help? HitLights provides compatibility charts and expert support.
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2097/6403/files/LED_strip_connectors.jpg?v=1762242530" alt="Connecting to Power" style="float: none;"></div>
<hr>
 
<h3 dir="ltr">5.2 Concealing Wires for a Clean Finish</h3>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
In-Wall Wiring: Use CL2 or CL3 rated cable (required by code).
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Surface Wiring: Use self-adhesive raceways or conduits to hide low-voltage cables.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Keep your setup tidy: it not only looks better but improves cooling and longevity. 
</li>
</ul>
 
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 6: LED Strip Light Troubleshooting Guide</h2>
Even with careful installs, issues can arise. Use this quick reference to diagnose and fix.
<div dir="ltr" align="left">
<table>
<colgroup> <col width="107"> <col width="182"> <col width="183"> <col width="151"> </colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
Symptom
</td>
<td>
Likely Cause
</td>
<td>
Solution
</td>
<td>
Pro Tip
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Lights dim at end
</td>
<td>
Voltage drop
</td>
<td>
Shorten run or add power injection
</td>
<td>
Use 24V for long runs
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
No lights
</td>
<td>
Polarity reversed or no power
</td>
<td>
Check driver output and flip leads
</td>
<td>
Always test before mounting
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Some LEDs off
</td>
<td>
Bent strip or bad connector
</td>
<td>
Reopen connector, inspect bend
</td>
<td>
Avoid sharp folds
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Flickering
</td>
<td>
Loose connections or wrong dimmer
</td>
<td>
Tighten all terminals
</td>
<td>
Match dimmer to driver type
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Power cycling
</td>
<td>
Overloaded driver
</td>
<td>
Recalculate wattage; upgrade supply
</td>
<td>
Add 20% buffer
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
Breaker trips
</td>
<td>
Short circuit
</td>
<td>
Inspect wiring and aluminum contact
</td>
<td>
Call electrician if unresolved
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2097/6403/files/Troubleshooting.jpg?v=1762242531" alt="LED Strip Light Troubleshooting Guide" style="float: none;"></div>
<hr>
 
<h2 dir="ltr">Section 7: Future-Proof Your LED Lighting System</h2>
You’ve completed a professional-grade installation. Congratulations! Keep it shining like new:
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Regular Cleaning: Dust diffusers and channels periodically.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Smart Upgrades: Add Wi-Fi controllers or voice integration later.
</li>
<li dir="ltr" aria-level="1">
Explore COB LEDs: “Chip on Board” strips offer seamless, dot-free light for your next project. 
</li>
</ul>
At HitLights, our mission is to empower DIYers and professionals alike to achieve brilliant, efficient LED lighting with confidence. For personalized advice on voltage drop, dimming, or connectors, our expert team is ready to help.

Welcome to the definitive LED lighting guide from HitLights, your trusted source for everything LED.

Installing LED strip lights used to feel like a job only a pro electrician could handle. Thanks to today’s solderless connectors, plug-and-play power supplies, and smart controllers, virtually anyone can achieve a professional-grade LED strip light installation at home or in the office.

This is a comprehensive article that guides you through every critical step. We're talking initial design, getting the technical stuff right (like tackling that tricky voltage drop calculation), and achieving a final, clean mounting and easy troubleshooting. We're here to ensure your DIY LED strip light installation looks professional, runs safely, and lasts for years.

Section 1: The Essential Pre-Installation Checklist

Before sticking your first strip, planning is everything. Most LED installation problems, flickering lights, dim ends, or overheating, come from skipping this step. Here’s your must-follow checklist for a flawless result.

1.1 Understand Your LED Strip System Components

Every lighting setup has four core components. Choosing the right ones determines your final brightness, efficiency, and longevity.

Component	Function	Key Decision Point
LED Strip Lights	The flexible light source.	Choose voltage (12V or 24V), color (single, RGB, tunable white), and brightness (lumens per foot).
Power Supply (Driver)	Converts household AC to low-voltage DC power.	Must match strip voltage and provide at least 15–20% more wattage than total LED load.
Controller/Dimmer (Optional)	Adjusts brightness, color, and temperature.	Select remote, wall dimmer, or smart Wi-Fi control (Google Home, Alexa).
Connectors & Wires	Bridge gaps and corners without soldering.	Use solderless connectors for simple, reliable, DIY-friendly connections.

HitLights Pro Tip: Invest in quality components from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility and consistent performance.

1.2 Voltage Choice: 12V vs 24V

Matching the voltage between your LED strips and power supply is non-negotiable. Here’s how to decide:

Feature	12V LED Strips	24V LED Strips
Best For	Small accent projects or vehicle lighting	Long runs (under cabinet, cove lighting, architecture)
Max Run	~16 ft (5 m)	~32 ft (10 m) or more
Wire Size	Thicker wire needed	Thinner, more efficient wire over distance

Recommendation: For most professional LED strip light installations, go with 24V strips. They minimize voltage drop, use thinner wire, and deliver consistent brightness.

1.3 Safety and Code Compliance

Safety ensures performance and peace of mind.

Follow the NEC and local codes. When in doubt, hire a licensed electrician for final connections.
Avoid sharp bends. Maintain at least a 1.5” bend radius.
Don’t power strips on the reel. Always unroll before connecting to prevent overheating.
Power Supply Placement: Keep it accessible, ventilated, and out of walls (inside cabinets or closets works best).

Section 2: Power Planning & Voltage Drop Prevention

Voltage drop, the dimming of lights along a long strip, is one of the most common LED installation issues. Here’s how to calculate and prevent it.

2.1 Calculate Your Total Wattage

Use this simple formula:

Total Wattage = (Length × Watts per foot) × 1.2 (safety buffer)

Example:
30 ft of 4.5 W/ft LED strip =
30 × 4.5 = 135 W
Add 20% buffer → 135 × 1.2 = 162 W

✅ Choose a power supply rated for at least 165W.
Always round up and never push a driver to 100% capacity.

Power Planning & Voltage Drop Prevention

2.2 Select Proper Wire Gauge & Use Power Injection

Correct wire thickness prevents voltage loss.

Distance (ft)	Recommended Wire Gauge (AWG)
Up to 10 ft	22 AWG
10–20 ft	20 AWG
20–30 ft	18 AWG
30–50 ft	16 AWG

What is Power Injection?
Adding secondary power leads to the middle or end of your LED run keeps brightness uniform. For long coves or architectural lighting, inject power every 16 ft (12V) or 32 ft (24V).

Section 3: Cutting & Connecting LED Strips (The Solderless Revolution)

This is where your install takes shape — no soldering required.

3.1 Cutting LED Strips Correctly

Identify cut points (scissor icons or copper pads).
Cut only on marked lines — cutting elsewhere breaks the circuit.
Use sharp scissors for clean, even edges.

3.2 Choosing the Right Connectors

Connector Type	Purpose	Description
Strip-to-Strip Jumper	Bridge gaps or turns	Flexible connector for joining strips around obstacles.
Gapless Connector	End-to-end joints	Ideal for sharp 90° corners or continuous runs.
Pig Tail Connector	Power connections	Links strip to power supply or controller.
L-Shape / T-Shape	Corners & splits	Allows branching or directional turns.

Installation Steps:

Prep: Cut cleanly at copper pads. Remove silicone if waterproof.
Open Clip: Lift the latch on the connector.
Insert Strip: Align polarity (+/−).
Secure: Snap clamp tight to ensure contact.
Test: Power briefly to confirm before final mounting.

Section 4: Mounting Channels & Finishing Touches

4.1 Why Aluminum Channels Matter

Aluminum channels do far more than look good:

Heat Dissipation: Extends LED life and prevents brightness loss.
Aesthetic Finish: Frosted diffusers soften “dotting” for a clean, continuous glow.
Protection: Shields against dust, impact, and moisture.

4.2 Channel Installation Steps

Mark Position using a level for perfect alignment.
Cut Channels to size; use 45° miter cuts for corners.
Mount Channels with screws or clips every 1-2 ft.
Clean the Surface with rubbing alcohol.
Adhere the LED Strip securely inside.
Snap the Diffuser Cover into place for instant professional polish.

4.3 Waterproof LED Installations

For outdoor or humid environments, use IP65 or IP67-rated LED strips.

After cutting, reseal ends with silicone caps and RTV silicone sealant.
This restores waterproof integrity and prevents corrosion or short circuits.

Section 5: Connecting to Power (Safely and Securely)

⚠️ Always turn off the power at the breaker before wiring.

5.1 Wiring LED Strips to the Power Supply

Low Voltage Side (DC):
Connect strip wires (+/−) to the driver’s V+ / V− terminals.
High Voltage Side (AC):
Connect L (Live), N (Neutral), and G (Ground) correctly.
Dimmable Systems:
Confirm your dimmer and driver compatibility (e.g., ELV vs. forward phase).

Need help? HitLights provides compatibility charts and expert support.

5.2 Concealing Wires for a Clean Finish

In-Wall Wiring: Use CL2 or CL3 rated cable (required by code).
Surface Wiring: Use self-adhesive raceways or conduits to hide low-voltage cables.
Keep your setup tidy: it not only looks better but improves cooling and longevity.

Section 6: LED Strip Light Troubleshooting Guide

Even with careful installs, issues can arise. Use this quick reference to diagnose and fix.

Symptom	Likely Cause	Solution	Pro Tip
Lights dim at end	Voltage drop	Shorten run or add power injection	Use 24V for long runs
No lights	Polarity reversed or no power	Check driver output and flip leads	Always test before mounting
Some LEDs off	Bent strip or bad connector	Reopen connector, inspect bend	Avoid sharp folds
Flickering	Loose connections or wrong dimmer	Tighten all terminals	Match dimmer to driver type
Power cycling	Overloaded driver	Recalculate wattage; upgrade supply	Add 20% buffer
Breaker trips	Short circuit	Inspect wiring and aluminum contact	Call electrician if unresolved

Section 7: Future-Proof Your LED Lighting System

You’ve completed a professional-grade installation. Congratulations! Keep it shining like new:

Regular Cleaning: Dust diffusers and channels periodically.
Smart Upgrades: Add Wi-Fi controllers or voice integration later.
Explore COB LEDs: “Chip on Board” strips offer seamless, dot-free light for your next project.

At HitLights, our mission is to empower DIYers and professionals alike to achieve brilliant, efficient LED lighting with confidence. For personalized advice on voltage drop, dimming, or connectors, our expert team is ready to help.

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Small size excelent quality

Great Customer Support and Service

I had this dimmable driver installed for my kitchen cabinet led strip lights. The original driver stopped working after about 2 years and I contacted support as this is warrantied for 6 years. Mr. Meden provided exceptional service and support in getting the replacement shipped to me in no time.
Fantastic people. I'm a Happy Customer.

Simplifies the LED tape light installation

These connectors make reliable LED tape light connections and simplify the tape light installation process. If you are installing gel coated tapes, be sure to gently scrape the tape contacts untill they shine. Otherwise, the gel residue acts as an insulator. - (Hitlights Amazon Store)

Warm White (3000K) strip is NOT warm - choose 2700K (“Soft White”) for warm incandescent effect

Beware the somewhat misleading descriptors used for these lights. While the 3000K option is described as “Warm White” and 2700K as “Soft White,” in fact, 3000K to these eyes has nothing to do with warm. It’s a cool, neutral light that reads bluish-white at night. We were looking to replace old “rope lights” from maybe 15 years ago that gave off a truly warm, incandescent glow. After doing some post-installation research, I now see that if you’re looking for a warm incandescent lighting effect, go for 2700K, whatever it’s called by the vendor. Why the warmer, in fact, warmest (2700K) light is called “soft” rather than “warm” and the cooler (3000K) is called “warm” is, frankly, beyond me. Caveat emptor!

Hi JPnyc,

Thank you for your recent purchase from Hitlights. We regret to hear that your purchase did not meet your expectations, and for this, we extend our sincerest apologies. Ensuring the quality of our products is most important to us, and thank you for giving us the opportunity to do better.

Our team reached out and left a voice message to address your concern. Should you need further assistance, please do not hesitate to call us back.

Best regards,
HitLights Team

Quick fix

Works perfect. Was going to buy new led lights when the contractor came loose. Took 2 minutes to attach and works great - (Hitlights Amazon Store)

The Ultimate LED Strip Light Installation Guide: From Planning to Pro Results | HitLights